Mastering Pattern Recognition- Strategies for Accurately Sizing Up Design Trends

How to Size Up Patterns: A Comprehensive Guide

In the world of fashion, understanding how to size up patterns is crucial for creating garments that fit perfectly. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced sewist, knowing how to adjust patterns is essential for a successful sewing project. This article will provide you with a comprehensive guide on how to size up patterns, ensuring that your finished garments look and feel just right.

Understanding Pattern Sizing

Before diving into the process of sizing up patterns, it is important to understand the basic concepts of pattern sizing. Most patterns are designed to fit a specific size range, which is determined by the average measurements of the target audience. However, everyone’s body shape and size are unique, which is why it is essential to make adjustments to the pattern to achieve the best fit.

Choosing the Right Pattern Size

The first step in sizing up a pattern is to choose the right size. Start by measuring yourself using a soft tape measure and compare your measurements to the size chart provided in the pattern instructions. It is important to measure yourself accurately, including bust, waist, hip, and shoulder measurements. If your measurements fall between two sizes, it is generally recommended to choose the larger size, as it is easier to take in a garment than to let it out.

Adjusting the Pattern

Once you have chosen the appropriate size, it is time to adjust the pattern. There are several methods to do this, including:

1. Grading: This involves drawing new lines between the original pattern pieces to create a gradual size change. It is best suited for small adjustments within the same size range.

2. Adding Width: If you need to add width to the pattern, you can do so by drawing a new line parallel to the original side seam, and then adding the desired amount of width to the pattern piece.

3. Adding Length: To add length to the pattern, you can extend the original pattern piece along the length of the garment, or by adding a new piece to the bottom of the garment.

4. Shifting the Pattern: If you need to adjust the pattern for a different body shape, such as a larger bust or a shorter waist, you can shift the pattern pieces to create the desired fit.

Using Pattern Alteration Templates

Pattern alteration templates are pre-made patterns designed to help you make specific adjustments to your garment. These templates can be a valuable tool for sizing up patterns, as they provide a clear guide for making adjustments. Some common alteration templates include:

1. Bust Adjustment Templates: These templates help you add or remove width from the bust area, making the garment more comfortable for those with larger or smaller busts.

2. Waist Adjustment Templates: These templates help you adjust the waistline, either by adding or reducing width.

3. Shoulder Adjustment Templates: These templates help you adjust the shoulder width, which can be useful for those with narrow or broad shoulders.

Testing and Refining the Fit

After making the necessary adjustments to the pattern, it is important to test the fit. Cut out the pattern pieces and sew a muslin (a practice garment made from inexpensive fabric) to check the fit. Make any additional adjustments as needed, and repeat the process until you achieve the desired fit.

Conclusion

Sizing up patterns is an essential skill for any sewist, as it ensures that your garments fit comfortably and flatter your body shape. By following this comprehensive guide, you will be well-equipped to make the necessary adjustments to your patterns and create beautiful, custom-fitted garments. Happy sewing!